Where exactly is the water coming from?
Ask the plumber to show you. A drip from a fitting or the relief valve is a different problem from water seeping out of the tank body, and only one of them is repairable.
The short answer: if the tank itself is leaking, replace it. If a part has failed and the unit is not near the end of its life, repair it. Everything in between comes down to age, the cost of the part and whether the heater still suits the house.
| What the plumber finds | Repair usually makes sense | Replacement usually makes sense |
|---|---|---|
| Where the water is coming from | A fitting, valve or connection above the tank | The tank shell itself, which cannot be repaired |
| Age of the unit | Well within its expected service life | At or past the age where failures start repeating |
| The failed component | Element, thermostat, igniter, thermocouple or dip tube | Multiple parts failing, or parts no longer available |
| Sediment and scale | A flush or descale restores normal hot water | Heavy corrosion with pitting or rusty water from the tank |
| Capacity for the household | The unit still keeps up with the bathrooms in use | The house has been added to and the heater never catches up |
| Where it is installed | Garage or utility space where a leak does little damage | Attic or closet above finished space, where failure is costly |
Most no-hot-water calls are repairs. On an electric heater it is usually an element or a thermostat. On a gas unit it is often the thermocouple, the igniter or the gas control valve. A tankless heater that cuts out mid-shower frequently needs descaling rather than replacing, because hard Dallas water coats the heat exchanger and the unit protects itself by shutting down.
Hot water that runs out early is its own category, and it is usually sediment, a failed lower element or a broken dip tube rather than a dying heater. A flush and a test will tell you within the visit. Dallas 24 Hour Plumber would rather fix a repairable unit than sell you one you do not need yet.
The detail of what a repair visit covers is on our water heater repair page, and what to check when there is no hot water walks through the symptoms before you call.
A tank leaking from its body is finished. The steel shell corrodes from the inside, and once it has gone through there is nothing to repair. The same applies when rusty water comes from the hot side only, or when the tank is pitted and weeping at a seam. Continuing to run it risks a full failure, which in an attic or an upstairs closet means water through ceilings as well as a cold shower.
Age is the other decider. Once a heater is near the end of its expected life, money spent on a significant repair buys a short extension and no warranty on the rest of the unit. Location raises the stakes further: a heater sitting above finished space is worth replacing earlier than one standing on a garage floor, purely because of what a failure would cost. If the household has grown or the house has been added to, replacement is also the moment to get the sizing right.
Where the current unit is already leaking onto a floor, see leak detection and repair to confirm nothing else is contributing, and burst pipe repair if a supply line let go at the same time. Local scheduling details are on our Garland and Irving service pages.
Ask the plumber to show you. A drip from a fitting or the relief valve is a different problem from water seeping out of the tank body, and only one of them is repairable.
The manufacturing date is usually decoded from the serial number on the label. It is the single most useful number in the decision, so ask for it rather than guessing from memory.
Ask for both prices side by side, including anything that has to be brought up to current requirements if the unit is replaced.
If the household or the number of bathrooms has changed since the heater went in, a like-for-like swap may repeat the problem you have been living with.
Tell us the age of the unit and what it is doing, and we will tell you which way it leans.