Isolating the system
Shutting off sections in turn to work out whether the loss is on the supply side, the irrigation system, the water heater or a drain line. That alone rules out a lot of the house.
Some leaks announce themselves. Others show up as a water bill that keeps climbing or a stain that appears on a ceiling weeks later. An independent plumber can locate hidden leaks in Dallas homes before anyone starts opening walls.
The meter test is the one thing worth doing yourself. Turn off every faucet and appliance that uses water, then look at the meter in the box near the curb. If the low-flow indicator is still moving, water is going somewhere. Note what you saw and tell the plumber; it saves time on site.

The point of leak detection is to cut in one place instead of four. Ask the plumber to narrow the location down first and only then open anything up.
Shutting off sections in turn to work out whether the loss is on the supply side, the irrigation system, the water heater or a drain line. That alone rules out a lot of the house.
Acoustic equipment picks up water escaping under a slab or behind a wall, and a pressure test confirms whether a line is holding. Together they place the leak closely enough to work on.
Moisture meters and thermal scanning map how far water has spread through drywall, insulation and flooring, which is usually wider than the visible stain suggests.
Ask where the leak is, what the access will involve and what it costs before the first cut. If a reroute is a better answer than a repair, ask why.
Where the leak is decides the repair. A failed fitting in an accessible wall is a short job. A supply line running through a slab is a different conversation, usually between repairing the spot, rerouting the line overhead or replacing that run. A leak on a drain rather than a supply line changes the method again, since drains are not pressurized and are traced differently.
Dallas gives hidden leaks plenty of help. Blackland Prairie clay swells after a wet spell and shrinks hard in a dry summer, and the foundations and pipes that sit in it move with it. Older houses in Oak Cliff and the Park Cities still hold lengths of original galvanized supply pipe that corrodes from the inside and weeps long before it bursts.
If the meter is turning and the wet ground is outside between the curb and the house, the fault is on the service line and belongs on our water line repair page. If the leak is under the foundation, go to slab leak repair. If a line has already failed outright, see burst pipe repair. A leaking heater is covered on our repair or replacement page, and you can always call about an inspection.
Shut off every fixture and appliance that uses water, then watch the meter at the curb. Movement with nothing running means water is escaping somewhere. A jump in the bill, a musty smell, a warm floor or a persistently green patch of lawn are the other common signs. An independent plumber can confirm it with a pressure test.
Finding it, usually not. Listening equipment, pressure testing and moisture readings locate most leaks without demolition. Repairing it does mean opening access at the leak, but the aim of the detection work is to make that one small opening rather than several exploratory ones.
How much of the system has to be tested and how hard the suspected area is to reach. A leak isolated to one bathroom wall takes less work than one somewhere in a slab under a finished floor. Ask the independent plumber to quote the detection work and the repair separately so you can see what you are approving.
If water is actively running or you can see damage happening, yes, shut it off at the meter box or the main valve and say so when you call. For a slow leak with no visible damage, leaving the water on is usually fine and it makes the leak easier to find. See how a referral call works for what happens next.
Describe what you have noticed and ask the provider what the inspection involves.